TMB - A photo a day

Tour Du Mont Blanc, September 2019

170km walked, 10,100m elevation gain, 10,220m of descent through France, Italy and Switzerland.

Flying into and getting around Paris.

When I finally landed in Paris, I had a few moments where I got lost - including simple ones - what platform for the train from the airport to central; to the more complex - which way to head once in the centre near the Pompidou Centre (I didn't have a functioning mobile yet). I chilled, worked it out, then headed on my way, walking 4km across town, stopping off to get an Orange sim for my mobile and then on to the Prince Eugene Hotel in East Paris's 11th arrondissement.  A nice and mellow spot.  I headed around the corner for a beer and a roll from the boulangerie. 

Looking all relaxed, in Paris, before the big hike.

By Train to Chamonix (Taconnaz)

Walked to Gare de Lyon, where I caught the TGV, then changed trains a few times, but it was a very smooth run to Chamonix (Taconnaz). I walked to the RockyPop Hotel, my accommodation for the night, where I had a beer and dinner. The mountains were tormenting me, feeding me with self doubt - that is a long way up!

view from Rocky-pop hotel.

Day 1: And so it begins - walk to Les Houches, then up to Refuge du Fioux

I had planned a very easy day for day one as I was worried about being jetlagged. I walked from the hotel to Les Houches, stopping off at the bakery.  After Les Houches, I missed the turn-off up the stairs a few times (that was not a confidence building start) then up and up on steep dirt tracks.  I had a rewarding coffee break at the top, then onto the Refuge du Fioux, my accommodation for the night, arriving far too early. 

First nights accommodation on the trail

Day 2 - TMB gold - forest, villages, alpine streams, roman roads and mountains

It was great to wind my way through small villages, forest, across streams and into the village of Contamines-Montjoie (at an altitude of 1,164) where I stopped for a coffee. Then uphill along roman roads and over an ancient bridge. The climb was long and steady.  The Refuge de la Balme was just below the mountain and I had gotten far too cold on the walk.  Accommodation was a very basic dorm room.

nicely decorated barn along the climb to la Balme

 Day 3 - moody mountain weather, quaint little village, simple food and comradery

Up into the mountains into the mist and remnant snow patches. A tough and misty climb followed by a very steep descent (taught me to be careful about sweating with layers). Luckily the sun came out at Champaix where I stopped for coffee, goat cheese and bread (yum!) and to dry out my gear in the sun.  After lunch it was a good walk onto Les Motetts. That hostel was in a top spot, well organised and provided  simple accommodation on a cold night. I enjoyed a post hike beer and dinner was a great beef stew.

Descending into Champaix 

Day 4 - Into Italia

A challenging snowy slog out of France, no views and severe wind chill at the Col de Siene.  However, once over the top and out of the wind it was a beautiful valley walk down to and past Rifugio Elisebetta and then onward with great scenery. I called mum while walking along through a light snow fall.  The day's hike ended with a harsh descent into Courmayeur.  But the last bit was a welcoming walk through beautiful Dolonne, then found my way to my accommodation in Courmayeur.

a beautiful dusting of snow while on the trail in Italy.

Day 5 - Rest day in Courmayeur 

The central square of Courmayeur.

Day 6 - A short hike up the mountain

I did a bit of admin, changing money and then picked up some snacks for the leisurely hike straight up out of Courmayeur. Had fun practicing my very rusty Italian with host at Refugio G Bertone.

Reward for the hike up from Courmayeur (way below)

Day 6 - just fantastic views but then a long and challenging day.

The walk along the valley ridge to Refuge Walter-Bonatti was amazing with blue skies and rugged snow covered peaks.  However, the steep walk down into the valley (Val Ferret) was a shock and hit me knowing I had to walk all the way back up to the mountain pass and cross into Switzerland and then do another 10 kilometres to La Fouly.  But awaiting me in Switzerland was my best (and most expensive) accommodation for the trip (Hotel Edelweiss). I caught up with Will and Jess that night after dinner. They had been watching and waiting for me to turn up (they gave up), I walked into town just on sunset. 

Fantastic scenery walking towards Refuge Walter Bonatti

Day 7 - La Fouly to Hotel Terminus, Orsieres, Switzerland 

A nice day's walk through old Swiss villages and along streams with mountain views. Then a relaxing and fun afternoon at the hotel Terminus (the hotel opposite the train station).

Walking through Swiss villages

Day 8 - Hotel Terminus to Trient via Champax Lac and Bovine

Our punishment for going off track to Osteries was the boring and arduous route up to Champax Lac (now that's a nice spot to stay). We then parted ways with the young one taking the tough route over the pass, while I stuck to the traditional route via Mount Bovine. Part of the track was exposed and quite hot. So Mount Bovine was a well needed spot for rest and water but they served up instant coffee.  It was a hard and long walk down into Trient, but a very nice spot and good accommodation.

view from Hotel room in Trient

Day 9 - Mountain goat mode, Trient to Argentiere.

I summoned the mountain goat within and just went up and up via many switch-backs.  Rewarded with great views of Mont Blanc at Refuge du col de Balme and a coffee.  Eventually, Will and Jess caught up with the mountain goat and we headed back into France and down to a hotel in Argentiere.

Time to celebrate - looking down into the Chamonix Valley.

Day 10 Argentiere up, around and down to Chamonix

We hiked up and up, out of Argentiere to Aiguilles taking on the dreaded ladders and then taking a break at Lac Blanc. Then a gruelling hike down to Chamonix via Flegere. The end of the hike was a nice hotel.

Great views heading up and around to Lac Blanc

The ladders!